PASSING OF A TRADITION THROUGH GENERATIONS: Jeff Lee, left, Clarence Goff, center, and Jerry Fletcher stand behind the boiling sugar kettle filled with golden colored syrup on the last day the syrup was made on Goff's farm in McAlpin.

PASSING OF A TRADITION THROUGH GENERATIONS: Jeff Lee, left, Clarence Goff, center, and Jerry Fletcher stand behind the boiling sugar kettle filled with golden colored syrup on the last day the syrup was made on Goff's farm in McAlpin.
Photo: Susan K. Lamb

Making cane syrup is an honored tradition in Suwannee County that is quickly going the way of many old ways. But some people want the tradition to continue indefinitely. In a recent changing of the guard at a local farm, Clarence Goff passed his years of knowledge and his equipment to a younger generation to carry on the tradition, just like the man who gave Goff his knowledge and equipment years ago.

While Jeff Lee and Jerry Fletcher busily cooked off the last kettle of syrup for the year and began bottling the last of the sweet confection as a crowd watched, Goff talked about how he was passing the tradition to the younger men as it had been passed to him. "I helped Wilton Gaston for several years then he gave me the equipment, and I brought it up here," Goff said of the sugar kettle and other equipment inside a metal building on his farm in McAlpin that is used in the old-time art. Goff said he doesn't even remember the year Gaston passed the tradition to him, but acknowledged it was many years ago.

"I made these two guys the same offer and I just quit today!" he said with a twinkle in his eyes, pointing to Fletcher and Lee.

Over the years, the event grew from several farmers producing cane syrup to fill their families' needs to a few

folks gathering at noon to spread a tablecloth on a table outside and have lunch while the men worked. It now has grown to more than 70 folks for lunch, all of whom bring a covered dish to share with friends, family and new friends they meet at the event. On this particular hot November day, a number of motor homes were parked in front of Clarence and Jean Goff's home, all owned by their friends who came to celebrate the event. Lunch was served from tables set up inside a metal farm building where one end of a shop had been outfitted for such events so the Goffs can enjoy any number of family and friends for gatherings. After lunch was over, people gathered their dishes they had brought and began preparing to leave, but not before they checked out the syrup making barn where the last kettle of syrup to be made on the Goff farm was quickly becoming a glistening golden color as the heat brought it to a rolling, bubbling boil of sugary syrup ready to hold its consistency.

"It'll be ready in about 15 minutes or sooner," Lee said as he stirred the boiling kettle situated on a brick "oven” made especially for the kettle. Where in times past the fire underneath was kept glowing by adding wood regularly, today's cane syrup is usually made using propane gas as it was at Goff's farm. At just the right moment, Fletcher and Lee, who had cooked off the syrup for the past two years in preparation for the big day this year, sensed the syrup was just right and cut the fire off. A washtub was brought out loosely covered with a white cloth and attached around the rim by wooden clothespins to hold it firmly in place. Then, the big moment as Fletcher began using a pan attached to a long pole to dip up huge pans full of the golden liquid and placing the hot syrup into the tub. Lee stirred the syrup to force it through the cloth, straining out any impurities in the process. Many guests gathered around during this process, commenting on the golden color and how the process was being undertaken. Others grabbed some of the wooden sticks that had been laid out and reached over to gather up "polecat," a sugary, confection that is the byproduct of cane making. The "polecat" happens as the syrup boils over the iron rim that is placed at the top of the sugar kettle, becoming slightly hard as it begins to cool on the lip of the sugar kettle.

"Ummmm, ummmm, good," said one man as he slid a small flat stick used to dip the "polecat" into his mouth, a sense of satisfaction spreading across his face. Others followed suit, enjoying the fruits of syrup making and the trip down nostalgia lane. Children who were watching with wide eyes soon were also enjoying this byproduct of syrup making.

Moving quickly and carefully, the hot pan of scalding syrup was moved to a table away from the kettle. Lee grabbed a chair, sat down in front of the tub and began filling pint bottles of syrup through a faucet attached to the tub as Fletcher carefully took each full bottle, wiped it clean of any syrup that might have gotten on the outside and began boxing the valuable bottles. A few bottles were sold quickly, but most had already been spoken for before it was ever cooked, they said.

Fletcher and Lee said they get five or six cookings a year. Goff said he has gotten as many as 10 cookings from the cane he grew himself. Of course, how many cookings you get depends on how much cane you plant. The mature cane is put through a grinder run by a tractor (in olden times a mule), extracting the cane juice to make the syrup.

Fletcher and Lee said the sugar kettle will hold about 35 gallons of sugar cane juice. That amount will cook down to about 70 bottles of syrup.

It was the end of a wonderful era for Goff, but it's just the beginning for these two young men who have accepted the challenge to carry on a time-honored tradition. As Wilton Gaston did, Goff said he's passing on all the equipment to Fletcher and Lee as part of their agreement. Lee said he would move the equipment to his farm after that last day of syrup making and move into the future, keeping tradition alive and well for future generations.

Along with the syrup making tradition, the two plan to continue the tradition of inviting friends to bring a covered dish on the last day of syrup making each year and fellowship as Clarence and Jean Goff and their forefathers did in their day.